Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

东海区近海强风预报模式     

杨良华 《海洋预报》1995,12(4):34-42

本文探讨东海区近海强风预报模式，首先介绍建立预报模式的思路和步骤，及使用说明，为了验证强风预报模式和判别条件，用１９８６、１９８７上日本传真天气图进行试报，准确和基本准确度为９１．１％，并给出了１９８９、１９９５年随船试验预报结果，准确和基本准确率为９０％以上。  相似文献   

贡湖水质富营养化综合评价及初步预测   总被引：13，自引：0，他引：13  

范成新  季江 《海洋湖沼通报》1997,(3):18-24

对１９９６年７月贡湖三次调查资料进行的水质和富营养化现状综合评价显示：贡湖水质以Ⅲ－Ⅳ类为主，局部已出发Ｖ类，凯氏氮，非离子氨和总磷为主要污染物；营养型以中营养和中富营养类型分布面积较广。  相似文献   

开展我国海洋区域地质调查势在必行     

莫杰  刘守全 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1993,13(2):99-108

本文概述了建国以来我国海洋地质调查与研究工作取得的丰硕成果。论述区域地质调查在海洋地质基础工作和未来海洋开发中的战略意义,介绍了国内外海洋区域地质调查的现状,对开展这项调查的可行性条件,以及进行1/100万海洋区域地质调查的项目内容、技术方法和提交成果等提出了设想和建议。  相似文献   

南沙海域万安盆地地质构造特征   总被引：1，自引：3，他引：1  

彭学超  陈玲 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1995,15(2):35-48

利用在南沙海域万安盆地所采集的地震、重磁资料及钻井、地质资料，对该盆地的地震反向特征，沉积特征、区域地质、构造特征及构造发展史进行了的简要的论述，本文以该区Ｔｇ深度资料为基础，并利用ＣＣＯＰ年刊发表的新生代基底深度资料，初步圈定了万安盆地的边界，并对盆地二级构造单元进行了划分，将盆地划分为５坳３隆、坳隆相间的构造格局。  相似文献   

A climatology of mesoscale model simulated low-level wind jets over Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait, Alaska     

Haibo Liu  Peter Q. Olsson  Karl P. Volz  Han Yi 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,70(4):551

Weather in the North Gulf of Alaska is characterized by a high frequency of deep synoptic-scale low-pressure systems, especially during the cold season. The strong pressure gradients of these storms interact with the extremely rugged terrain of the coastal mountains to produce a variety of channeled flows. These surface wind regimes are not well documented in the scientific community, due to the paucity of observations. Modeling of these phenomena in regions of complex terrain is of great interest to those working with hydrodynamic, wave, and pollutant transport models in coastal and shelf areas. Such models, when coupled with ocean and coastal-ecology counterparts, give a broad view of the role surface winds play in shaping local coastal marine ecosystem in this region. This paper presents a climatology of simulated low-level wind jets over the domain of Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait along Alaska's south-central coast. Daily simulations using the RAMS model were conducted in a 36-h forecast mode for the cold-season period 10/1/03 to 3/31/04. Systematic analysis of the resulting simulated low-level wind field makes it possible to characterize these jets and gap flows in spatial and temporal detail. The comparison between the RAMS winds and the Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR)-derived winds when available verifies the existence of these wind jets and the capability of the model to simulate these cases. Clearly, the results of a study in this region depend on the fidelity of the model at these scales (O[5 km]). The SAR comparisons attempt to help establish this. From the 6 months of simulations over Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait, the low-level wind jets are classified into 10 different regimes by location and orientation. These regimes are categorized into four more general groups: cross-channel westerly, easterly, and up and down Inlet flows. The nature of a particular regime is largely a function of pressure gradient orientation and local topography. Jets in the same group have a similar occurrence distribution with time. Some form of jet occurred in the study region almost daily each month of the period, with December 2003 having the highest frequency of wind jets.  相似文献   

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究     

孙孚  张书文 《海洋与湖沼》2001,32(5):547-550

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。  相似文献   

浙北地区旱涝预报问题探讨—一种汛期降水量长期预报方法     

周洪祥  方同德 《海洋学研究》1993,11(2):1-8

本文分析了当地前期气象要素——温度的演变特点与汛期降水量之间的关系,建立了两者之间的回归方程,并由此作出降水量的长期预报,从预报误差和试报结果看,效果是好的。  相似文献   

烟威渔场盐度预报及分析     

郑东  张瑞安 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1989,(Z1)

本文以我国北黄海的烟威渔场为研究对象,采用优选因子场预报模式,对盐度的时空变化进行预报试验。文中对所采用的统计预报方法,作了简要介绍。对影响本海区盐度变化的显著因子及预报结果作了初步分析。预报试验表明:预报的总体平均绝对误差为0.27‰,预报相对误差在18％左右,预报误差小于0.5‰的站数占总站数的85％,预报趋势与实测资料基本一致。  相似文献   

Siltation Prediction for Navigation Channels and Harbour Basins on Muddy Beach   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Liu Jiaju Zhang Jingchao Prof. Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydralulic Research Institute  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1992,(2)

- This paper, after briefly reviewing the experimental research on sediment transport on muddy beach since the 1950s, improves and perfects the method for forecasting siltation in navigation channels and harbour basins which was first put forward in China by the authors. In consideration of silty sediment and sand, some factors in forecasting methods have been changed and modified. Consequently, the modified methods can be used either to compute siltation in navigation channels and harbour basins on muddy beach or to compute siltation and scouring in navigation channels and harbour basins on both silty beach and sandy beach. The verification of field data from eleven large, medium and small natural harbours shows a good agreement between the forecasting by the modified method and the natural conditions. Finally, the paper deals with the rational utilization of water area after the construction of the West Dyke in Lianyungang, the maintenance of water depth of the navigation channel at the entrance, siltation distribution, siltation in the navigation channel and harbour basin for ships of 100 thousand tonnnage. Results once again prove that the prospect of constructing Lianyungang Harbour into a deepwater harbour is bright.  相似文献